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100 best electric bike riding tips (1)

100 best electric bike riding tips (1)

Want to be a better biker? Just ride it. Every time you turn the pedal, you will naturally raise a little bit.

Of course, a good cycling tips, trick, or some wisdom can help you achieve something you may not learn in a few years. From my cycling book, 1,100 tips for the best moments, this is the generous intellectual help from the most skilled and knowledgeable coaches, physiologists and cyclists in the world.

Ride position and speed faster

No. 1 Avoid muscle soreness and fatigue. Don’t shrug your shoulders. Tilt your head every few minutes to avoid tight neck muscles. Even better: stop and admire the scenery.

No. 2 By sliding back or forward on the saddle, you can emphasize different muscle groups. This pair of long crawls serves as a way to rest various muscles, while others are responsible for this work. Moving forward emphasizes the quadriceps, while moving backward emphasizes the hamstrings and gluteal muscles. Don’t forget to take a break occasionally and stand a few pedals.

No. 3 If you are not used to taking your two hands off the bar, warm your arm with your other hand and use your teeth to pull the wrapped cloth from your wrist.

No.4 Don’t move your upper body too much. Let your back act as a fulcrum and your bike swings back and forth under it.

No. 5 Put your shoulders behind the front axle. Too much weight forward makes the bicycle difficult to maneuver and may cause the rear wheels to jump into the air.

No. 6 Uses a rowing motion to pull up the railing to counter the strength of the legs. This helps to transfer your energy to the pedal instead of becoming a wasteful exercise.

No. 7 If you have no chance to slow down the obstacles, such as rails or potholes, quickly pull up the handlebars to improve your front wheels. You may also damage the rear wheel, or it may be pinched, but you can prevent the front wheel from being hit and causing a collision.

No. 8 Crawled around on the saddle carefully, hunched back when tired. Shift to a higher gear and pedal regularly to prevent stiffness in your hips and back.

No. 9 Relax your grip. On flat, traffic-free sidewalks, practice putting your hands on the handlebars. This will not only help relieve muscle tension, but will also reduce the transmission of road vibrations to your body.

No. 10 Periodically changes the position of the hand. Grab the descent or high-speed riding and brake lever cover to relax the cruise. During a long climb, grab the top of the railing, sit upright, and open your chest to make breathing easier. While standing, gently grasp the hood and gently roll the bike from side to side, synchronizing with your pedal strokes. However, be sure to keep every thumb and finger tightly closed around the hood or bar to prevent yourself from losing control if you encounter unexpected bumps.

No. 11 The width of the handlebar should be equal to the shoulder width. A wider bar opens up your chest for breathing, and the narrow one is usually aerodynamic. Choose a riding style that suits you better. Position the angle of the rod so that the bottom, flat part is parallel to the ground, otherwise the point is just slightly downward and toward the rear hub.

No. 12 If you lead a straight uphill climb, keep your rhythm and pedal pressure the same, and switch to an easier gear.

No.13 Keep your arms in line with your body instead of extending your elbows. This is an easy way to make yourself more aerodynamic and faster, with no extra energy.

No. 14 When your efforts become more difficult, increase the power of breathing instead of the frequency.

Notes on safety
No. 15 When riding in a group, always keep your hands in contact with your brakes, whether it’s dripping or on the hood. In that case, you are always ready to take your time.

No. 16 Crosses the railroad tracks on the side of the road. There is usually smoother than the middle.

No. 17 Don’t stare at the steering wheel behind, you are following a straight line. Keep your peripheral vision labeled while you look in front of a few riders and see what they are doing. If something happens to make them turn or change speed, you will be ready. A straight line is like a Slinky: the small movements in the front will be amplified and accelerated because they will flow to the back of the backpack.

No. 18 In the first 10 minutes of the heavy rain, when the oil and dust float on the surface of the road but have not been washed away, be extra careful. However: painted road lines and steel surfaces (manhole covers, grids, rails, bridge decks and expansion joints) will immediately become slippery until they are completely dry.

No. 19 Enter the lane, treat your bike as a car, and stop and go when the traffic is. In heavy traffic, you can usually move as fast as a car. If you hug the side of the road, you will be less noticeable and drivers will be attracted to you.

No. 20 Stay at a place far enough from the traffic lane to avoid being hit when the parking door opens suddenly, and pay attention to pedestrians who open the door or suddenly jump out of the car. You may hear some drivers honking their horns, and they don’t understand why you don’t pull to the right to let them pass–but the horn in your ear hurts more than a door on your face.

No. 21 When you stop at a traffic light, move to the center of your lane. This will prevent the driver from rushing forward and trap you between them and the side of the road. When the light changes, accelerate to your cruising speed, and then move to the right to let them pass.

No. 22 When you see a car parked at an intersection, pay attention to the first tip of the front wheel to move forward. If you see any, prepare to brake and shout loudly to get the driver’s attention.

No. 23 On a road with no shoulder, ride in the right wheel track of motor vehicles to ensure you don’t blend into the scenery along the edge of the road. This also gives you 3 to 4 feet of space from the edge of the pavement to let you dodge potholes or deal with wind gusts.

No. 24 Scan the rear windows of parked vehicles to find people who may suddenly drive into your lane or open the door. You can also see pedestrians coming out of cars.

No. 25 When you are on the bike lane and a car turns right in front of you, do not turn left or turn around. Take your time, stay in the lane, wait for the car to turn, and then continue driving.

No. 26 Keeps a straight line through intermittently parked cars in parallel-don’t walk through empty spaces. The driver may not be ready to make you suddenly reappear in the traffic lane.

No. 27 If you hear a metal click every time the crank rotates, please lubricate the pedal thread (tighten firmly when reinstalling).

No. 28 The squeak is emitted from the pedal instead of the chain, if it happens every stroke in the same place. For traditional pedals, spray lubrication places where the cage is connected to the body. For a scissorless pedal, clean all clean contact points, then apply silicone spray to these points and wipe off the excess. Also make sure that the clamp is tight.

4 pedals are worth clicking
No.29 The chirp almost always comes from the chain-it’s yelling. lubricating.

No. 30 If a chain is clicked, it has a close link. First, clean up your chains. Then, turn the crank backward by hand and watch the chain pass the derail wheel. The rigid link will jump. Grasp the chain on both sides of the hard chain, bend it to the side to loosen it, and then apply lubricating oil.

No. 31 If the handlebar or valve stem creaks when sprinting or climbing, tighten the adhesive bolt (front). If the noise persists, loosen the adhesive bolt, spray light lubricant between the stem and the valve stem, wipe it away, leaving a thin film, and then reuse it firmly.

No. 32 Buzzing occurs when a cage, frame pump, or other attachment vibrates, or when the cable housing vibrates on the frame. To find the culprit, touch these areas while riding, then tighten, shorten, recoat or tape as needed.

 No. 33 Bell and the jingle usually come from a seat bag. Use rubber bands or rags to secure items.

No. 34 The sensation of percussion is usually as much as heard. Common causes: uneven rims and raised or incorrect seated tires.

No. 35 Clicks during saddle climbing and sprints sometimes come from the friction of two spokes. Add a drop of oil to the intersection of each spoke. (Note that the oil cannot drip down the spokes through the rim brake. If you have a disc brake, do not drip onto the disc.)

No. 36 Never trust your ears. Frame transmission noise. You might swear that a sound comes from your crank, but it might be your saddle track. Check all possible points.

No. 37 When you start to feel pressure and a heavy pace, try this breathing technique: don’t actively inhale air into your lungs, and then passively release it (our normal mode), push the air out, let It flows back naturally. Bonus: Because of how you activate your lungs to do this, it also helps you get into a lower riding position and maintain a flatter back.

No. 38 Descends on…, your bike is much more stable than when coasting.

No. 39 Whenever you transition from standing to sitting, add some inches of freedom and push the bike forward as you descend into the saddle.

No. 40 When stops, put your left foot down to prevent the greasy chain “tattoo” on your right calf.

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