Riding a fat bike in the snow
Riding a fat bike in the snow
When I took the Hotebike A6AH26F power bike out of 6 inches of powder for the first time, I found myself screaming like a 3-year-old girl, spending hours riding on my front lawn. When riding a fat bike in the snow, I feel completely out of control, which is good. The bicycle did not act according to my wishes, and the rear wheel kept spinning, making me feel that there was no way in hell. I would never be able to ride such a small snow control in the woods.
Before long, I was able to control the bike and predict very accurately what I would do based on the conditions, the position of the tires, and the throttle I gave it. Hitting the monorail is the next logical step.
If there are many trails built in the residential house, there is a half-mile-long driveway that rises nearly 800 feet vertically. This is the perfect way to build a snow trail, because all you need is a slight slope on most of the path, so gravity will help you move when traction is poor or non-existent. Once you reach the bottom, you can ride your electric bike along the plowed road back to the top and hit it again. Riding on a monorail like this is a strange combination of sledding, skiing and snowboarding.
1) The bike will go where the bike wants to go. In the snow, the bicycle will naturally slide into the ditch or rut. When you are on the sideways fall line, the tire will slide out and naturally enter the snow bank. You can fight the trend that the bike must find the lowest point, or you can learn to use it to accurately predict where the bike is going.
2) Riding posture is everything. Pedaling is a luxury, you can only afford it on straight and flat terrain, where you can go up or down directly. If you are on a side slope or a sharp turn, you need to take your foot off the pedal from the inside of the turn or the side of the uphill foot, and be ready to grab yourself when the bike inevitably slides out. Put your other foot on the pedal, buttock away from the seat, and place your leg behind the pedal, on the foot you want to put down to grab your own. You don’t want to be caught by an empty pedal.
3) Etiquette is very important. If you see other people cycling or skiing on the trail, stop and wait for them to pass. If you wish, please say hello and bring a friendly greeting in case they bother you by riding an electric bike on the trail. Your best course of action is always polite and non-confrontational energy. In most places, they must work very hard to keep off-road motorcycles away from their tracks, so if they initially think you are cheating or breaking the law, don’t be angry.
4) Different conditions require different riding methods. Riding in a few inches of powder is much more difficult than riding on a hard-covered piste. If you are riding on a hard bag and your bike ends up in powder, you may quickly lose control of the rapid deceleration
5) Large studs like some tires are very suitable for traction. There is nothing better than chains, you can buy their pre-made chains on the website, or build your own chains as shown here. There are also studded fat bicycle tires, but in my opinion they are too expensive, not worth the weight, and meaningless for monorail bikes.
6) When you are looking for something on your trail that has a lot of downhills. If you go straight down the fall line, a steep slope of 35 degrees or more will be interesting. Avoid building trails that slope more than 10-15 degrees to the side, you will spend all your time preventing the bike from slipping and being forced to ride at a much slower speed than you want. Avoid building any trails that go uphill more than 10 degrees, in the thick snow, you will eventually have to walk.
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7) You can ride freely in the woods without trails. This is really fun, but be careful because you will inevitably hit wood and tree stumps hidden under the snow. Be prepared for anything. When you fall, follow step 8.
8) The most important rule for riding in the woods is not to look at the trees. Always look at where you want your bike to go, never look at what you don’t want to hit. If you look there, your body will find a way to make it happen, so just get in the habit of doing this. When you lose control and fall, this is the most important time to relax and see where you want to go. The snow is soft. The tree is hard.
9) Slow down the speed, the speed will increase the stability, but you will also get injured when you lose control. When riding on stakes or bridges a few feet high, slow down and give yourself enough strength to pass without leaking air. If you are jumping over a log, walk over it the first time you hit it and see if it will be cleared. If not, then don’t skip it, go with it. Constantly against antigen wood will eventually destroy the house.
10) Width is very important. Narrow tires tend to track better, slip less and perform well in light snow and powder. Wider tires will be looser, more elastic, and easier to drive on snow. If the snow is not too deep and there are not many icy ruts, an ordinary 26 full suspension bike can be as fun as a fat bike. One way to make fat bike tires wider is to buy wider rims/wheel sets. An 80mm rim will make a 4-inch tire about 1/2 inch wider than a 50mm rim. If your tires are already very close to the chainstay, using larger rims may make the tires currently too large for your bike.
11) Tire pressure is king. “When in doubt, let it out.” If you are not satisfied with the ride, try to let the air out of the tires. It works miracles. I ride 7 psi in the front and 8 psi in the back, but I heard someone rides until 4-5 psi. The lower you go, the greater your traction, but at some point you will start to become flat. Do not exceed 10psi in the snow. The large round dial pressure gauge is very inaccurate at low pressure. I use a cheap digital slime meter, which I bought on the website for about $2. And an adapter is left on a tube handle of each bicycle so that the tire pressure gauge and air compressor can be used. You can buy them at the appropriate dollar price on other websites.
12) Keep your hands and feet warm. Dress in layers. My hands always get cold about 1/4 of the ride, but in the end I will warm up. Lined gloves are best, two hoods are better than one. Since most of the heat is lost from the head, it can be helpful to be able to remove the outer gloves or headgear. Roll up the drive side trouser legs, because your bicycle chain will tear your pants and pull your feet toward the drive system.
13) Keep away from the front brake. I never put on the front brake, I only use it when I’m about to hit a hard object. You are almost always best to lock the rear brakes and drag the rear tires. It is much more predictable, and you are much less likely to bite it.
14）Have more fun than others.
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Precautions before snow riding:
1)Fully charge the battery before going out:
charge everything to 100%. If it has been on the charger for more than 24 hours, unplug it, wait one minute, and then re-insert the charger to charge the battery. Shenfen has an insatiable appetite for Watt, no matter what power you put in the woods, it will inevitably burn it. If there is no new snow on the trail and it is full, you can ride with a frame bag prepared in advance for more than an hour. If there is snow to be plowed, you need to bring a self-made frame bag. If you put the batteries in a backpack, you can get more power from them. This may be because the backpack can keep them warm.
2)Keep your electric bike and battery good and warm before going out:
Prepare 3 luggage racks placed side by side, and roll the fat tire bicycle into the house after each ride and let it melt. When you leave the car outside after riding in the past, you will also encounter various problems. You can imagine frozen bearings, transmissions, brakes and chains. Store your bicycle in it, and you can set off at any time. Lithium batteries lose up to half of their capacity in very cold conditions. Even if it is minus 20 or so, you will want to go out, if it is not closed in your backpack, this is very bad for the battery.
3)Point the front wheels where you want to go, but don’t expect to get there:
Depending on the snow conditions, your front tires may go where you want to go or other places. Keep your body relaxed and ready to compensate and constantly adjust the direction of the bike. If your body posture is straight up and down and you turn the front wheel vigorously, it will tend to slide straight. If you are trapped in a frozen rut and try to get rid of it, the bike will most likely only follow the rut.
4)Treat the entire riding experience as controlled skidding:
Most of the time my rear wheels skid because I stepped on the accelerator or slipped out because I locked the brakes. After some time, you will learn to predict the position of the rear wheel (it will always slide downhill and opposite to the direction in which the bicycle is tilted) and perform appropriate tilt and slide to make the bicycle point where you want it. Some people never use the front brakes and only use the rear brakes. If you want to slow down and the brake does not work because it is wet with all the snow and ice, just go to the fresh powder and the bike will slow down on its own. If you squeeze the front brake hard, you will almost certainly be eliminated.
5)Speed is your friend: it sounds counterintuitive, but it works.
The rotational stability of the wheels greatly increases the overall stability of the bicycle. The faster you go, the more fat you will ride on the snow, the easier it will be for him to go where you want to go. When there are no trees, open the throttle and slide all over the place, when the trees are tight, you relax and try to keep everything together. It helps to forget about stepping, just put all your weight on one foot and use your inner foot as stability to slide around corners like a cross-country motorcycle. Don’t look at the trees, look at the clearing where you want to go. This is especially important when you lose control.
6)Park the car at the lowest point:
When something breaks (it will) or your battery is dead, it is easier to limp home when your car is at a height lower than you. Starting from a low point, the battery will be consumed when going up the mountain instead of sliding down. If you don’t have enough power, then follow the trimmed snowmobile trail or road up, and then cut through the powder when going downhill. Downhill in deep powder consumes much less power than uphill in deep powder.
Finally, I sincerely hope that you will ride happily in the snow and have an unforgettable riding experience.
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